Pure Life in Costa Rica : A week's Adventure on the Caribbean Coast

October 21, 2019

I suffered from a serious case of withdrawal symptoms when my week long press trip in Costa Rica concluded. I stayed in bed all day on my return to London nursing my jet lag. The grey sky and the washed-out summer outside my bedroom window didn’t help. I missed my gallo pinto breakfast and waking up to the chirping of the birds. I remembered our guide Manrique, a fellow Tico (Costa Rican), said that he felt emotional when bidding us goodbye at the airport. I missed him and his home country too.

Sitting in my flat in London, I browsed through my camera roll and every image is a flash back of my time in Costa Rica. They are a reminder of the happy times spent as well as the relaxation that I had, including a few things that I crossed out from my bucket list.

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The mention of Costa Rica conjures up an image of lush green rainforest and a myriad of flora and fauna. It is undeniable that the country is famed for its nature. With a size of 0.03% of the world's landmass, Costa Rica contains a whopping 5% of the world's biodiversity. I was surrounded by lush green forests everywhere I went and spotting wildlife in their natural environment couldn't have been easier, from red-eyed frogs that we see on Costa Rican tourism posters to a mother sloth hung on the tree branch feeding its baby. Those nights when I was lulled to sleep by the creaking of the crickets and woken up by the chattering of the monkeys at dawn were particularly memorable. It's a scene of what I would have described as close to a paradise.

The trip brought me from the capital, San Jose, to Puerto Viejo, a beach town at the southern end of the country's Caribbean coast, through Sarapiqui region, Tortuguero, Limon and Cahuita. It may have just been a week long but I have collected so many good memories from the trip including a few of the highlights below that I would recommend.

1) Rafting on the Sarapiqui River

I am not an adrenaline junkie but I couldn't pass on what I would consider as a 'once in a lifetime' opportunity to try white water rafting, especially when I was in Costa Rica and it is one of the most popular tourist activities here! Like many others who have no prior experience of white water rafting, I did not know what to expect and was dubious if I would enjoy it fully. I was quickly proven wrong as soon as our guide started teaching us some basic but essential paddle strokes and having us practised next to a shallow bank. With his easy-to-follow instructions and his experience and knowledge on the river, I knew that I was in safe hands and my hesitancy and nerves were soon quelled. Without realizing, we were already plunging deep into the water and riding the rapids far and further along the river. The class III river on which we rafted had small waves and drops but was recommended as the entry level for many first timers (with guides). We may have been completely soaked (that's part of the experience!) but it turned out to be satisfyingly fun and exciting. I couldn't have asked for a better way to start our trip and to be honest, I would do it again in a heartbeat!

2) Visit Tirimbina and Walk across the Longest Suspension Bridge in Sarapiqui

While in Sarapiqui, we visited Tirimbina Biological Reserve for a bird watching tour. The Reserve comprises 345 hectares of natural forest and is home to up to 395 species of birds. As soon as we stepped into the forest, a mixture of tweets greeted our ears, at times a harmonious tune orchestrated by our feathered friends and at times a cacophony of jarring voices in disagreement. During the tour, we saw kingfishers, toucans and learnt about their characters and ways of life. I never knew that toucan was actually quite an aggressive bird. Due to their large bill, they are intimidating to small birds. As they are omnivorous, they could sometimes ransack the nests built by smaller species and prey on their chicks.

Apart from guided tours, there are also many trails here in the Reserve that the visitors could go on. The highlight would be to cross one of the longest suspension bridges in the country! With a length of 264m long, the bridge crosses Sarapiqui River which serves as the source of life and as a means of transportation to the locals. Standing at the mid point of the bridge, the view of the fast flowing Sarapiqui and the surrounding forest went as wide as my vision could stretch and is definitely a beautiful sight to behold!

3) Visit to Tortuguero Town

From Sarapiqui, we arrived at Tortugeuro, a town named after sea turtle (Tortuga) in Spanish. Every year between July and October, thousands of green turtles will swim ashore and lay their eggs on the black sandy beach here. While it was not egg-laying season when we visited Tortuguero, this place is more than just sea turtles. The village has a population of about 2,000 and is only accessible by plane or boat. We arrived through the latter from La Pavona dock. There is no road and car in this village and life here, surrounded by the greenery and the coastline, is simple and unhurried. Along the main walking path at the heart of the village, souvenir shops, local eateries and art galleries lined both sides. The fruit stalls sell both fresh coconut water and a selection of cocktails. In the evening when the temperature drops, men gathered outdoor for a game of domino the while school boys played football in the field and the girls danced to a Spanish pop song. I like the relaxing atmosphere here and it is certainly a good place for slow travel to take your mind off the hustle and bustle of the city.

4) Kayak on Tortuguero Canal

When Manrique asked if any of us would be interested to go on a kayaking trip at 6am in the morning, I was surprised that every single one of us said yes. Even if it meant that we had to sacrifice our sleep and wake up early. Even if it meant that it would be raining the next morning and we could get completely drenched. Nobody complained and we all turned up on time!

We were told that 6am would be the best time to spot the wildlife 'waking up' to the day. While the wet weather did not do us favour, it did however add a sense of mystery and drama to the forest, making it even more luring. At the break of dawn, the forest was eerily quiet except for the pitter-patter of the falling rain. As we paddled along, we saw iguana perching on a fallen tree branch by the bank, camouflaging so well that we almost missed it. From a distance, the tree tops swayed and we caught a glimpse of the spider monkeys swinging from one branch to another. Tiger herons are common inhabitants here and it was not too difficult to spot one standing motionlessly at the river bank trying to get a good catch for breakfast!

5) Canal Boat Tour in Tortuguero

Another experience that I truly enjoyed while on the trip was the boat tour along the canals in Tortuguero. I have seen rain forest many times before on the big screen but to see it in real life on a boat, so close to the water and deep in the forest, is an experience of another level. We were cruising fast on the meandering canal until we reached the smaller and narrower branches where the boatman stopped the engine. Everything suddenly went quiet as we reached the belly of the forest. The surrounding looked so eerie and mystical with the dappling sunlights and moving shadows under the thick canopy. We all went quiet, mesmerized by the scene that lied before our eyes. I closed my eyes and was fully engulfed by a sense of solitude and calmness. All I could hear was the tweets from the birds, the rustles of the foliage and the soft murmurs of the warm breezes. The sound of nature in its purest form. I have never been so close to nature and that feeling was heavenly.

6) Visit Puerto Viejo

The final leg of our trip was to visit the coastal town of Puerto Viejo. I still remember it was dusk when we arrived and the town was basking in golden twilight. As we traveled south here, the landscape of the country changed from one of the verdant countryside with mountains and rivers to that of a vibrant beach town with bars and cafes.

Puerto Viejo is undoubtedly a touristic hub these days. It is increasingly popular for those, particularly the young hip crowd, searching for somewhere to chill, sip a cocktail and dance to the raggae music playing in the background. While you can find specialty coffee and sourdough pizza here, old charms linger on. At the old jetty, locals fished from the sea as the sun was setting. Along the street, fruit stalls and old shops thrives.

But Puerto Viejo is not just about its town, there are many white pristine beaches here for beach goers to have a dip in the sea or to soak up the sun. Our snorkelling experience, another first for me, off the coast of Cahuita National Park was truly memorable! Floating on the sea surface looking down at the colourful corals of different shapes and patterns through the crystal clear water was definitely another awe-inspiring moment of the trip!

7) Visit to The Sloth Sanctuary

I think I could safely deduce that sloths are the sort of animal that is easily likeable by many. They may be moving 'sloth-ly' but isn't that the reason they are so adorable? While in Cahuita/Puerto Viejo, we visited The Sloth Sanctuary. Here, we met the oldest resident in the Sanctuary, Buttercup. She arrived as a one-month old baby but is now 27! Here, we also heard many sad stories of how sloths were being abandoned, orphaned and injured. Some due to deforestation resulting in the loss of habitat while others lost their mothers who were either hit by a car or electrocuted when climbing up an electric pole. Sadly, baby sloths cannot survive on their own in the wild without their mothers teaching them life skills. As life skills cannot be taught through human carers, many of the baby sloths may have to stay lifelong in the sanctuary. The works at the Sanctuary in rescuing the sloths and making sure that they have a home is heart warming and highly commended. So, if you are visiting Cahuita, do pay them a visit!

8) Wander the town of Limon

We stopped over in Limon both on our ways to Puerto Viejo and on our return journey back to San Jose. Although they were just flying visits, we did manage to get a glimpse of the local life in this port town where Christopher Columbus first landed and found Central America. On our way to Puerto Viejo, we stopped at Red Snapper Restaurant, a cosy restaurant on the hilltop overlooking the city’s coast line and colourful rooftops. We had, as the name of the restaurant suggested, the local red snappers with fried plantain, bean paste and hot sauce, one of the best dishes that I had on the trip! On our way back to San Jose, we stopped again in Limon for a couple of hours. This time we wandered around the waterfront of this port town and paid a visit to a local market in the city centre. The market is the city’s hub of activities where the locals brought produces from farm to sell. Herbs and plantains were abundant as well as local fruits such as coconuts and pineapples. We weaved through different sections of the market, saying hello to the barbers and old men sipping coffee at a café! It was the perfect place to meet the locals and wave goodbye to Costa Rica before we boarded a private jet back to San Jose to catch our flight back to London.

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I have never thought that I would enjoyed Costa Rica and a trip surrounding nature so much but I proved myself wrong! Because I did. As much as it is a cliché to say there was so much to do, so much to see and so many lists ticked off in Costa Rica, I ended up enjoying being close to nature, especially those moments when I was deep in and fully engulfed by the jungle, the water and the noise and quietness of nature. Those moments were cleansing to the body, mind and soul. That was when I truly lived the ‘Pura Vida’ moment in my life.

Recommendations

Sarapiqui

Stay at La Quinta Lodge. My room has a balcony overlooking the Sarapiqui river and I was lulled to slumber by the flowing water and woken up by the howler monkeys in the morning.
Join the Chocolate Tour by Costa Rica Best Chocolate to understand the cultivation of cocoas and make your own chocolates!
Our white water rafting tour was organised by Aventuras del Sarapiqui. The guide we had was experienced and as a first timer, I felt I was in safe hands for a fun and exhilarating experience!
Walk the longest suspension bridge at Tirimbina Biological Reserve. Check out their website for self guided trails to go on in the forest or book yourself a guided tour!

Tortuguero

Stay at Mawamba Lodge for a fully relaxing time and spot wildlife such as iguanas and howler monkeys. The hotel also organised walking tour to Tortuguero town, canal boat tour and sunrise kayaking tour!

Have a wander around Tortuguero town and enjoy the slow pace of life!

Walk along the sandy beach and and take in the view of the wide expanse of the coastline and the rolling waves. Or come in season and join a sea turtle nesting tour!

Puerto Viejo

Stay at Namuwoki Lodge. The 13 bungalows are all built in the midst of nature and surrounded by tropical gardens.

Visit Cahuita National Park. There is a raised wooden walkway, making it more comfortable and easier to meander around while you appreciate the rainforest.

Snorkel at Cahuita National Park. The water is warm and the sea is clear, perfect for spotting the colourful corals!

Have a night out in the Puerto Viejo town for dinner and drinks and to soak up the Caribbean vibes!

Pay a visit to the Sloth Sanctuary to get close to these cute creatures and understand the stories of the Sanctuary and the sloths!

Limon

Visit the local market and meet the locals.
Stroll along the waterfront and admire the sea view of this port city.
Have the red snapper lunch!

Mawamba Lodge (left), La Quinta Lodge (centre), Namuwoli Lodge (right)

I was on a one week long fully complimentary press trip organised by Costa Rica Tourism Board. All words, images and opinions, as always, are my own.

Good Life with F Zeen in Kefalonia, Greece

July 21, 2019

It was a balmy August afternoon and I was sitting at Gaia, the in house restaurant of F Zeen Retreat Hotel, perusing the menu. While contemplating what to order, a quote on the top left hand corner of the menu caught my eyes – it is not living that matters, but to live well (if my memory has not failed me).

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When an invitation landed on my inbox for a visit to the island of Kefalonia, my initial thoughts were of the sun, sand, sea and party life. This was harking back to the memories of my younger years’ holidays in Santorini and Mykonos but all was proven wrong. Kefalonia was more than just that and is a very interesting island.

For a start, the geological disparity is quite obvious. The north side of the island is dotted with its pebble beach, Greek firs and black pines while the south has an expanse of sandy beaches, olive groves and cypress trees. It is this geological wonder that gave Kefalonia its amazing beaches; Mrythos, Lourdas and the famous Antisamos, where Captain Corelli’s Mandolin was filmed. There are also the impressive Mount Ainos, the tallest in the Ionian islands, and the the Melissani Lake with its sapphire blue/emerald green crystal clear water where the eels that make their home here. The geological position of the island also meant that Kefalonia is the primary place that produces the rare Robola grapes. It is so unique that the wine produced has a protected designation of origin.

Melissani Lake looking all mystical with the light mist that hovered just about the water surface.

The towns and villages dotted around the island are also very quaint. Some villages such as Asos still keeps the remains of the buildings destroyed in 1953 but springing around these ruins are small seafood tavernas, colourful villas and local supermarkets. Then there is Argostoli with its bustling shops, pretty lighthouse to the ‘riviera’ seafront. The towns and villages, although sprawled across the island, share one same thing - the laid back lifestyle and slow-paced attitude. It may be the calming scent of the Eucalyptus tree forest (planted from seeds obtained from Australia), the refreshing sea breezes that usher in to the hot landscape or the bleating goats that hang around on the highway, forcing everyone to slow down. Whatever it may be, it is easy to be drawn into this lifestyle.

Argostoli and its beautiful details and charm

This is where F Zeen Retreat Hotel fits in so perfectly with the island. The resort prides itself as a retreat where you come here to do nothing or to undo everything. Rooms with a view of the Ionian sea connect you to the outdoor while the infinity pools invite you to take a dip on hot days as you lounge around reading your favourite book. Classes on yoga, meditation and Qi Gong are also held to help guests to physically wind down (although there are also fitness classes held at the well-equipped gym) while spa sessions send you into a rejuvenated state and untangle all the knots on your body and mind.

This is exactly why F Zeen attracts such a diverse clientele as everyone comes for the same reason. To relax.

Evan, the owner, explained to us that as a family run business, there was a concerted effort in realising their dreams. His Mum worked with the architect to design the new wing of the resort including the interior, his dad handled the construction while his sister, Tasia, deals with customer wellbeing from the products used in the rooms, healthy menus in the restaurants to little gestures such as inspirational quotes dotted on their stationary to the gift of oregano seeds to plant back home. There was also all the magnificent staff, mostly local, that became the backbone to the retreat’s ethos.

The family is clear in what they want to achieve and what they want their customers to achieve. Having lived the demanding careers and lifestyles in fast-paced cities, they realised that there was more to life than financial gains. Physical as well as mental well-being plays such an important part to life and eliminating stress can lead to a longer, happier and healthier life. With the rise of negativities and pessimisms in today’s world, it could be difficult to notice that tiny ray of hope that creeps in from the darkness. Everyone is so busy being preoccupied with their daily life, with worries and anxieties becoming part and parcel these days, that they forget to let go but here, you learn to do that subconsciously.

The natural surrounding at F Zeen, from garden, vegetable patches, pond to forest.

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Sitting in my living room here in London and looking back, if there is one thing that I have taken back from Kefalonia and F Zeen, in particular, is to take and appreciate every opportunity to relax and cultivate our mental and physical wellbeing. This is, after all, the ‘Good Life’!

My stay at F Zeen was fully complimentary, including all meals, transfer to hotel and private tour around Kefalonia. All words, images and opinions are my own.

Feeling Saudade in Porto

November 07, 2017 in Travel

It may have been April but the weather was already warm in Porto and the daylight long. The sunlight hurt my eyes but warmed my cheeks as I crossed River Duoro from Gaia at the south to Porto at the north via Ponte Luis I, the landmark steel arched bridge that appeared on literally every postcard that you could find here. The view was stunning at this time of the day. The sloping city was basking in golden twilight. Sea gulls were circling high above the sky while the locals and tourists thronged at Ribeira, searching for food and entertainments as the sun set in the west.

Upon my descent from the bridge, I found a table at a local restaurant at Ribeira and ordered a seafood platter. I thought it was only fitting to have seafood when you were in the warm Mediterranean weather and close to the water. I was sipping my beer when I heard a voice of melancholy and sorrow drifting in from a distance amidst the clutter of tables, conversations and clinking glasses. It was Fado sung by a busker. It reminded me of what the guide from the free walking tour this morning told me - saudade. The Portugese word for feeling deep nostalgic and longing, often about lost love.

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I have heard a few good things about Porto, no doubt from my Instagram followings where the beautiful pictures of the city slowly and regularly creeping up. I was sold. I need to see the city.

So there I went during the long Easter weekend and checked in to my B&B, an apartment perched on the slope of Rua de 31 de Janeiro with a view overlooking the railway lines running in and out of Sao Bento Station. My local B&B hostess did not speak much English but one thing she said that I must tick off while in Porto was to visit Sao Bento railway station, one of the most beautiful in the world. She was beaming with pride when she said that. There was also no reason not to as the station was only a hop away from where I stayed. She was right, of course. Every time I walked past, I made a detour to visit. The station was like a magnet pulling me in. I felt rude not to. I couldn't help myself every time admiring the tiles, the space and the light, which were simply magnificent.

Porto is heaven for tiles lovers. The entire city is dotted with buildings, mostly churches with walls cladded with the iconic blue and white Azulejo tiles that tell thousands of stories. The locals may have been oblivious to their existence and they walked past without shooting a glance. For me, it was just a precious sight to behold. Along with Sao Bento Station, there were Capela de Santa Catarina, Igreja dos Carmelitas and the Porto Cathedral (Se), to name a few. They were all treasures to me, the type that makes you quicken your foot steps as soon as you see it from a distance as you can't hold the eagerness to stand in front of it and have a close look all over.

While it may have been a decrepit building, Mercado do Bolhao was another favourite place of mine in the city. The spiral staircase leading to the first floor with its metal balustrade and the surrounding wall with peeling paints and cracked tiles under the soft morning lights, provided me with a good introduction of what this place was like. It was full of characters. Past its youth and beauty, it is nonetheless the place the locals frequented for groceries and sundries and the tourists for souvenirs or a peek into the local life.

Compared to the Portuguese capital, Lisbon, Porto is a smaller city. It is also so compact that I walked nearly every where whilst there. The entire city was adorned with many characteristic buildings with Portuguese and the walk was therefore never boring. As a hilly city, the ascent to the top of a steep lane was always rewarded with the picturesque view of the city. My favourite was a slow saunter from Torre de Clerigos to the Palacio da Bolsa through the narrow winding streets that connected both points.

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Writing this post at my flat in east London on a grey day with the dismal rain pelting on my window, I suddenly missed Porto, its warmth and its golden twilight. A sense of melancholy rose up to my chest. Is this what you would call 'saudade'?

My two pennies' worth:

Walk up to the hill of Rua da Vittoria to Igreja Paroquial da Vitoria for the (orange) roof top view of the city.
Walk up Rua do Ferraz off Rua das Flores for your best Instagram shot - narrow sloping lane with the Se in the background.
Cross Ponte Luis I as the sun sets, the view of the city and the river is perfect at this golden hour
Also during sunset, have a slow stroll around the Se and take in the view of the city as the birds fly back to their nests and darkness befalls. See here.
Eat lots of pastel de natas at the city's best and oldest bakery, Padaria Ribeiro. I missed it as I thought I would go before I left the city but it was Easter Monday and the bakery was closed! Lesson learnt - don't save the best for last!
As if it is not enought, the next door bakery Leitaria da Quinta do Paco served the best eclairs in Porto! There you go, back to back eating between pastel de natas and eclairs along the same street, less than a minute away! No reason not to.
Majestic cafe and Livraria Lello are always full and have long queue. Wake up with the larks if FOMO is real and they are on top of your list of things to cross out.
I love the traditional grocery shops in Porto. There are a few along Rua Formosa. My favourite has been A Perola do Bolhao. While you are in the area, visit Mercado do Bolhao.

Brussels, After Such A Long Time

May 21, 2017 in Travel

Although I have been to Brussels before, it was an affair of more than a decade ago. My memories of the city were hazy but lingered on the iconic Grand Place and the legendary Manneken Pis. When the invitation from the recently launched Radisson Red Hotel landed on my mailbox, I had an urge to visit this city again, to rekindle with my somewhat lost memories of the city and to seek what was beyond the Grand Place and the Manneken Pis. Without much hesitation, an email agreeing to the visit was sent.

When my train pulled up at the Bruxelles-Midi station, I realised I actually did not have any recollection of this station that I travelled to before. I couldn't wait to alight the train and walk out of the station to explore the city again, visiting old favourites and discovering new finds.

Strategically situated at the southeastern corner of the city, staying at the Radisson Red allowed me access to most of the attractions within walking distance, which I often find it the best way to see a city. Having arrived late on a Friday evening, I thought I would snuggle up in the comfy bed of Radisson Red and save my exploration for the next day by setting off early.

It has become my travel ritual lately to see a city at least on one early morning in its sleepy state. I just like how quiet the streets are on a Saturday morning. My aimless mosey brought me to Sablon, a quaint neighbourhood full of antique shops, markets and chocolatiers. I remembered weaving in and out of the many antique shops that lined along Rue Blaes, browsing age old curios and furniture in each. It was like paying visits to live museums. Each piece of item or painting provoked my thoughts on the story behind and the intricate workmanship that had long lost. Each piece of furniture was a reminder of a past era, be it something I saw during my childhood or teenage years, both bygone.

I think my visit to Brussels won’t be complete without stepping foot at the Grand Place, no matter how many times I have visited the place. Looking at the grandeur of the buildings and the square, they still left me in awe.

I did not stay long as I was going to check out another place on my list – the flea market at Place du Jue de Balle. Here, thousands of items were laid on the square’s cobbled stone ground, from antique silverware, grainy postcards from the 70s to memorabilia from past Olympics games. People picked and examined items, haggled and exchanged cash. The market truly lived up to the spirit of one man’s junk is another’s treasure!

My two pennies' worth:

Visit Eglise Notre-Dame du Sablon and the quaint small antique market next to it.
Stroll along Rue Blaes and weave in and out of the many antique shops along this street, it is just like visiting live museums!
Visit the flea market at Place du Ju de Balle at the end of Rue Blaes if you are into haggling and buying antiques or cheap finds, if not, it is also a good spot for people watching.
Have (lots of) chocolates, macarons and ice-cream from Pierre Marcolini!
Visit the old favourites - Grand Palace and Mannekin Pis.
Dine at the classic Chez Leon, order mussels and frites and down everything with pint of Lyffe. It couldn't be more Belgian than that!
Have a hearty traditional Belgian food at Fin de Siecle. Sit down and share the long table with the locals in the restaurant's lively environment. It is as close an experience to local dining as possible.
Have light bites at Le Perroquet while you enjoy the place's art nouveau interior.

My First Post

June 11, 2016

So here I am, after having been asked for so many times in the past whether I have a blog, this site is born and I am actually typing up my first blog while lying in my bed, character by character. I have never blogged before, it is a whole new world to me. I don't know how often and for how long will I be keeping this up with my already busy daily life and work schedules. I hope to drop by every now and then to drop a few lines. Yes, a few lines. This is what I am going to call it - A Few Lines.